A few years ago, translated articles, huh, huh, when practicing English, English-Chinese comparison, if there is a mistranslation, please correct me.
There are more and more friends who like to hold boulders, and there are also many friends who have been injured because of bouldering. I have found this article in the magazine and hope that everyone will have a basic understanding of the protection of bouldering stones.
Safe hands — how to give better bouldering spots
Safe Hand--How to Provide Better Boulder Protection
By Dave Pegg (Climbing Magazine, No207, Nov 1, 2001, P.92, )
The worst spot I ever had was at Hueco Tanks, Texas. One moment I was near the top of Best of the West pawing at two miserable slopers; the next I was hurtling backward toward the ground. To his credit, my spotter didn't Flinch. In fact, he didn't move -- an inch. I hit him like an express train and pancaked him into the ground. We both ended up flat on our backs, me badly winded, him bruised and shaken.
I met the worst bouldering to ensure that it happened at the Hueco Tanks in Texas. At the moment my hands were still on two painful rubbing points, close to the top of the Best of the West line; and the next second, My back slammed violently on the ground. My ensurer was not at all embarrassed by his "credit". In fact, he did not move even one inch. I crashed him to the ground like a high-speed train. Finally, I Both were lying on the ground, and I was almost out of breath. He was swollen and quivering.
Being spotting is as important as good belaying. Yet, although we all go through the motions, surprisingly few boulderers give surplus thought or attention to spotting -- or even know how to do it properly. As I learned at Hueco, a clueless spotter, No matter how courageous, is no substitute for one with good technique.
It is very important to ensure good bouldering is the same as ensuring rock climbing. Even though we have ensured for others, we are able to pay sufficient attention and concern in ensuring the process, and even the boulders who know how to ensure bouldering correctly. It was surprisingly scarce. The lesson I learned at Hueco was that an ignorant bouldering ensurer, no matter how ardent and brave, can never replace an experienced surety.
Spot spotting often stems from a misconception of what spotting is. Spotters don't have to "catch" falling boulderers. Instead their aim is to steer them onto a safe landing site, ensure they land feet first, and, if possible, slow them Down a bit, taking some of the sting out of the fall.
Poor bouldering ensures that it often stems from misunderstandings of assurance. In fact, it is ensured that those who do not need to “catch†the detached boulderers will be guided to a safe landing site to ensure that the boulderers are on the ground; Slow down their fall speed to reduce the damage caused by falling.
The first step to good spotting is standing correctly. Position yourself a foot or so behind the likely point of impact, moving as the boulderer moves. Your knees and elbows should be slightly bent to absorb the shock of a fall; your palms should be open With the fingers extended -- bent, jammed digits are a common spotting injury. Resist the temptation to watch the boulderer's hands; focus on the area of ​​the boulderer's hips or back where you intend to apply the spot.
The first step to ensuring a good bouldering is to stand in the right place. After standing about one step away from the possible shedding position, move along with the boulders, bend your knees and elbows slightly, and open your palms to absorb the fall. The impact; make sure to pay attention to prevent finger bruising. Don't always stare at the boulders' hands and focus on the boulders' hips or back to provide the necessary protection at any time.
Fork lift. When spotting steep, medium-height problems, aim to grab the boulderer on both sides of the upper back, just below the armpits. This will tip him upright. Keep your outstretched hands as close to the boulderer's back as possible so he Has little time to accelerate if he falls (figure 1).
Fork lift
When you are securing a steep, medium-height line, aim at the sides above the back of the boulders, about the bottom of the arm. This ensures that the boulders stay vertical when they fall off. Keep your hands as close as possible to the boulders. The person's back minimizes the acceleration when it comes off. (Figure 1)
Figure 1
In addition, stand on or squat to one side of the boulderer and hold your arms slightly bent a couple of inches under her upper back. , ready to cradle it in the crook of your elbows should she fall (figure 2).
Cradle spot
For low and steep bouldering, you can't provide forklift-like guarantees for the boulders. You should stand or kneel on the side of the boulders, bend your arms slightly, and place them under the boulders' upper back. Inches, ready to use your arms to support her. (Figure 2)
Figure II
The hip spot. This spot is used high and less-steep problems where the boulderer is likely to fall feet first. Track her hips with your outstretched hands, again keeping them as close as possible. In the event of a fall, grab the hips And steer the boulderer to a safe landing zone (figure 3).
Hip spot
This way of ensuring that it is used in relatively high, not too steep, boulderers may be on the line where the foot touches the ground. Extend your hands as close as possible to the buttocks of the boulders and move with them. If the boulders fall off, hold His buttocks also guide him to land in a safe area (Figure 3).
Figure 3
A good spotter, well versed in these techniques, can give you the confidence to pull that dicey upside-down move, big dyno, or airy, highball topout. Your spotter can't, however, eliminate the dangers of bouldering. Remember You take a nasty fall you're not only putting yourself at risk, you're endangering him too. Be considerate, discuss the problem and potential dangers with your spotter -- and know when to back off.
As an excellent ensurer, you must be skilled in the bouldering skills to ensure that the boulders feel safe in their attempts to take risks such as head-thrashing, big dynamics, and leap-frogging. However, your surety cannot eliminate the bouldering. Danger. Remember that whenever you have a serious fall, not only you are taking risks, but also your surety. Be careful and analyze your bouldering route and possible dangers with your surety. And know when to give up.
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