Translation: tethys2011
When the hand is particularly far away, I guess everyone will complain that they are too short. But what about? How to deal with it? How can I jump to grab a higher hand? Naturally, everydynois, toacertainextent, uniqueintermsofholds, angles, lengthetc, butthereisalsoatleastoneaspectinwhichalldynosaresimilar;. Youhavetoletgo ... Whatdecidesifyouaretosucceedareyourphysicalshape, technique, butmostofallyourmind.Hereare14piecesofadviceandtrainingtipsfroma166cmshortman, withnegativegorillaindexanda193cmtallguywithpositivegorillaindex.
In general, different fulcrums, angles, heights, and other factors will cause each of the dynamics to be different. But all the dynamics do have one thing in common: You have to give it a go. The success depends on your physical condition and technology, but the main thing is your will. There are 14 training dynamic skills for the short person who is only 166cm tall and the big man 193cm.
1.Letthecatchinghandgoaslateaspossible!
The later the better shot!
Averycommonfaultamongbeginnersistoletthecatchinghandgotooearlyinthemovement.Doingthis, you'lllosealotofpowerwhichthehandwouldhavegeneratedifyou? Dhaveletitgolater.Yougetalongerpartofthedynowithoutcontact.Thebestwaytocorrectthismistakeisprobablytodothe "candle" .Thismeanstryingtogetthebodyashigh (upintheairthatis) aspossiblewithoutlettingthehandsgountilthelosetouchwiththeholdthroughthemomentumofthebody.
One mistake that beginners tend to make is to shoot too early when doing dynamics. Compared to later shots, doing so will cause you to lose most of the momentum. Premature shots will make your body stay longer in the dynamic process. The best way to correct mistakes is to do "upward leaps" as much as possible. Specifically, try to stretch your body as far as possible until you reach the highest point and release your hand.
2.Slaponthewall/hold!
Take a wall/shoot!
Whenyoustartworkingadyno,itoftenfeelsimpossible.Youfeelthere'snouseeventryingreally,andifyoudo,youdon?treallygoforit.Togetasenseofimprovement,startslappingthewallashighupaspossible.Trytosetnewpersonalrecords.Intimetherecordoftengetsdangerouslyclosetothehold,andyoucanstarttryingtograbit.
When you first try a dynamic action, you tend to feel that it is unlikely to complete. Even feelings are in vain. Even if you do something dynamic, you can't reach that point. At this time, you have to start with the practice of step by step from the wall, jump to shoot as high as possible, and then set a new target after shooting. Let this goal get closer to the target point you want to grasp, and practice it over and over again. Until finally I can jump and catch it.
3.Recruitthewholemove!
Practice complete action!
It'saneasymistaketoonlyrecruitthemusclesactiveinthefirstfacesofadyno, forgettingthemusclesthatcomeintoplaylater, intheactualgrabbing-face.Thereasonforthisissimple:? Youwon'tusethecontact-musclesifyoucan'tdothecatch ... Recruitment-wise, thebestisifyoucanreachtheholdandputweightonit, ifonlyforamicrosecond, since, thisway, allthenecessarymusclefibersgetstoplay.Ifyoucan'treachtheholdbyyourownpower, usesomeoneelse s, ortherope.Youcanalso, withsupport, Tryreversingthemove.
People often make the mistake of calling only the muscles used in the dynamic start phase, forgetting the muscles to call when they really want to grab. The reason for committing this problem is simple: if you can't catch the target, you won't use contact muscles... The sensible way to coordinate is when you can grab the target and work hard on it, even if it's only a thousand For a second, this will also coordinate all necessary muscles. If you can't catch the target point yourself, you can use some help, such as rope. You can also try to repeat this action with the help of others.
4.Pushwithyourfeet!
Push with your feet! Dontforgetmostofthepowerinadynooriginatesfromyourlegs.Tryputtingasmuchweightaspossibleonthefootholds,tothepointwhereyouactuallyskidsoffthem(paragraph7).It?smostoftenanadvantageusingassoftshoesaspossible,sinceyouthiswaygetthemostoutofthemusclesinyourfeet.Remember,thosemusclesarealsorecruitable!
Keep in mind that most of the power in the dynamic comes from your legs. Try to place the weight as much as possible on the support foot, which is the foot you actually want to jump. The better you can get through soft shoes, because it will allow you to use your foot muscles most effectively. Remember, these muscles are also coordinated to use!
5.Use"thebungeecord"toyouradvantage!
Take advantage of "spring" action Togainmomentum,youshouldstarteverydynowithaverticalmotion,upandthendown,tokindofextendthebungeecord,tobeabletouseitspowertobecatapulted(hopefully)towardtheholdyou?reaimingfor.Ifyoudon?thaveenoughroomforthis,it?salsopossibletogainmomentumbyswingingsidetoside.
In order to gain more jump power, you should do vertical movements before each dynamic, up and down, similar to the spring extension compression, this power will "eject" you toward the target point (hopefully ) Go out. If you don't have enough space for spring action, you can also rely on swinging your body to gain momentum.
6.Long,evenapplyingofpower
Sustained, even when it is in force
Acommonmistakeistousetoomuchpowerinthefirstfacesofthemove.Doingthis,it?sveryeasytolosecontactwiththeholds,andhencetheonlywaytokeepthemomentum,inthelastandoftendecidingface.Sometimesit?sbestnottouseallthefuelatonce...
The usual mistake is to use too much energy at the very beginning of a dynamic. This is very easy to get you out of hand, and grasping the hand is the only way to ultimately maintain momentum and is a determining factor. It's sometimes easier to complete the dynamics by continuing to use power instead of all at once.
7.Usethelowerhandtothemaximum
Maximize the use of low hand points
Beforeyou?vemanagedtoliterallypullthelowerhandoffthehold,youhaven?ttriedhowmuchpoweryoucanapplytoit.Thisis,ofcourse,nottrueforjugs,butonsmallerholdsyoumustpushtowardthelimitofwhat?spossibletogainmaximumeffect.
When you are ready to loosen the lower hand, you haven't tried to grasp for much longer. This point does not apply to the kind of big hand, but the hand point is relatively small, you must grasp more harder and more lasting hand in order to get the most effect.
8.Dynoinwards
Inwardly active Aproblemwhencatchingisthatitsoftenhardtokeepcloseenoughtotherock,butswingout.Awayofsolvingthisistodynoinwardsbystartingwithmoreorlessstraightarmsleaningoutfromtherock,andthenthroughyourselfwardwards,upwards.
One of the problems often encountered in grabbing points is that people always show up and it is difficult to get close enough to the rock wall. One way to solve this problem is to first straighten your arm and tilt it away from the rock wall, then jump inwards.
9.Over-orundercurve
Sports arc: bend upwards or downwards?
Whendynoingdiagonally,it?simportanttochoseanover-orundercurve.Itsimpossibletodesignaruleforwhentousewhich,sincethepossibleholdplacementmentcombinationsareinfinite.Simplytrywhatfeelsbestforyou.Maybeyoushouldjustgostraightforthehold!
When moving obliquely, it is also important to choose whether the action's route is an upward or downward arc. Because the position of the fulcrum is different, there is no conclusion about which method you choose to use. The easiest way is to try what you think is best. Perhaps straight shots are dynamic and good!
10.Tick-marks
Mark target point
Tomarktheholdyou?regoingforwithabrightwhitechalk-lineisanunderestimatedmethodtoimproveyourtiming.Don?tjustdustsomechalkonthehold,useclear,brighttick-marks,youwon?tbedisappointed.Iftheholdissomewhathiddenyoucanalsodrawarrowsetc.tomakeiteasiokoknowwheretoaim.
Put the target point you want to grab with a clear mark with white chalk. Although this is often a method of underestimation, it does help you. Do not just casually shoot magnesium powder on the target point. Make clear, obvious marks. This will not disappoint you. If the target point is hidden somewhere, you can draw an arrow, and so on, so that it is easier to know where the target point is when you are doing dynamics.
11.Hyperventilate
Strong breathing
Experimentsshowyou llactuallygainshorttermpowerbyhyperventilating.Ithasprobablysomethingtodowithadrenalinebeingfreed,andthatyou,hence,getabitmad...Try4-5fastdeepbreathsandgoforit!
Tests show that people do gain short-lived energy after strong breathing. This may be related to the release of adrenaline, and you become a little crazy... Try to take deep breaths four or five times and then go for dynamics!
12.Timing&Dead-points
Timing and dead-point (dead-point), the highest point of the action curve, when the body is in no weight state in less than a second, and then began to fall.)
Asuccessfulcatchisoftenaboutbeingabletokeeponefoottotherock,andit?softenalsoimportanttoreachtheholdatthedead-point,thatisinakindofweightlessstate,neithergoingupordown.Thisisespeciallytruewhenyou?redynoingsidewaysortoasidepull.Ifyouusetomuchpowerandstillaregoingupwards/sidewayswhenyougetthehold,it?sveryeasytoswingoutandlosebalance.
When successfully grasping the next hand point, it is often necessary to let one foot still step on the rock wall. At the same time, it is also crucial to hold the hand point at the “dead point†when the body is in a state of no weight. It is also the highest point of the body's jumping exercise. This is especially effective when you start doing dynamics from side or side pulls. If the body is still moving up or sideways as you grab the hand, you can easily throw it out and lose balance.
13.Contact-timeandgrip-positioning
Grab the time and location
Theclueistomakethecontact-timeaslongaspossiblewhenyougetyourfingersonthehold.Doingthisyouallowthemusclestobemaximallyrecruited,andtoreachaflexingcrimp-position.Firstthefingersbendupwards,andthendownwards,allinafractionofasecond.Aspecialtrickistothroughyourheadbacktoextendthedead-pointforacoupleof1/100ofasecond.
The trick is that the old can extend the finger grab time. Doing this will maximize the muscle call, allowing the body to bend before stretching. The fingers holding the rock point first bend upwards and then bend downwards. The whole process takes less than one second. A special tip is to tilt your head back to increase the catch time by one hundredth of a second.
14.Practice makesperfect
Practice makes perfect
Last, butnotleast, it?stheamountofdedicatedtrainingyou?veputinthatwilldecide.Yourbodyneedstolearnthemovementsotospeak,forthemusclestobeabletointeractperfectly.Youcan?tthinkofalltheadviceabovewhenyou?retryingadyno,youmustworkthemonebyone,untilyoudoitnaturally.Now,flybabyfly.?
Finally, there is an important point. How much you invest in practice determines your level of improvement. Your body needs to learn how to do movements, that is, muscles can do perfect interactions. When trying a dynamic, you can't think about all of the above suggestions. You must follow it step by step. Practice makes perfect.
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